Topsoil coverage chart (cubic yards per area and depth)

Quick coverage chart (per 100 sq ft)

Depth drives volume

Small depth changes add up quickly over large areas. Always double-check depth before ordering.

• 1 inch is 1/12 ft; 2 inches is 1/6 ft; 3 inches is 1/4 ft.
• Use average depth for uneven lawns, not the deepest spot.

Rule of thumb (fast mental math)

A useful shortcut: 100 sq ft at 1 inch depth is about 0.31 cubic yards. Scale that by depth. For example, 250 sq ft at 2 inches is 0.62 cu yd per 100 sq ft x 2.5 = about 1.55 cu yd.

This is for planning and ordering. Real jobs need a buffer because lawns are not perfectly flat and material compacts and settles.

Leveling tip that prevents over-ordering

Do not measure depth from only the lowest spot. Take multiple depth checks and use an average thickness across the area. A single low spot can make you over-order by a lot.

When to add extra (common real-world drivers)

• If you are filling low spots, the average depth is often higher than it looks from one location.
• If you plan to rake and feather edges, your “coverage area” expands beyond the obvious low spot.
• If you will compact or roll, plan for settlement (especially on thicker fills).
• If you have clay soil or poor drainage, check grading plans before adding significant thickness.

Practical ordering checklist

• Confirm whether your supplier sells by cubic yard, ton, or bag (do not mix units).
• If sold by tons, use supplier-specific conversion (moisture and product type change density).
• Order in whole increments you can handle: bags, half-yard, or full-yard deliveries depending on access.

Bagged topsoil: cubic feet and liters (quick conversions)

Bagged topsoil is commonly labeled in cubic feet or liters. Convert everything to cubic feet (or cubic yards) first, then round up to whole bags.

Helpful conversions: 1 cubic yard = 27 cubic feet. 1 cubic foot ≈ 28.3 liters.

• Worked example: need 18 cu ft and your bag is 40 L (≈ 1.41 cu ft). 18 / 1.41 ≈ 12.8, so buy 13 bags (plus a small buffer for leveling).
• If the project is large, compare bag totals to bulk delivery; bags add up quickly in both cost and carrying time.
• Bulk topsoil is often cheaper per unit, but quality varies by supplier—confirm screening/organic content if it matters for your project.

How to measure area (fast and good enough)

For rectangles, area = length × width. For circles, area ≈ 3.14 × radius². For irregular lawns, break the space into simple rectangles/triangles, estimate each area, and add them up.

The biggest ordering errors usually come from area estimates (or using the deepest spot everywhere), not from the chart itself.

• Measure along the ground, not “as the crow flies” across steps or slopes.
• If the site is sloped, measure the footprint (plan view) area, then confirm whether you’ll also need regrading materials.

Screened topsoil vs fill dirt (what changes coverage)

“Topsoil” is not a single standardized product. Screened topsoil spreads and rakes more evenly than fill dirt with rocks and clods, which can leave high spots and require more material to get a smooth finish.

• For lawns and finish grading, screened topsoil is usually easier to level and seed.
• For deeper fills, you may use cheaper fill material below and finish with a topsoil layer (project dependent).
• If you’re doing significant fill, plan compaction and settling so the final grade ends up where you want it.

Topsoil blends and compost mixes (coverage changes)

Many suppliers sell blended topsoil that includes compost. The blend can improve soil health, but it may feel lighter and fluffier than straight topsoil. That can change how it settles and how much you need after watering.

• Ask for the blend ratio if you are ordering by the yard.
• Expect some settling after watering; plan a small buffer for touch-ups.
• If you are topdressing turf, keep the layer thin so grass can grow through.

When topsoil isn’t the fix

• If water pools because of poor slope or a blocked drain path, topsoil alone may not solve it.
• If you have heavy clay, consider aeration/compost topdressing strategies and drainage planning (project dependent).
• If the yard has severe ruts or large low areas, you may need regrading before a thin topsoil layer.

Choosing a depth (how people actually use this chart)

Depth should match the job. A thin topdressing is used to improve soil and smooth minor unevenness. A thicker layer is usually a leveling or regrading project, which can change drainage and may require compaction planning.

If you’re unsure, start by defining the goal: improve turf health, smooth bumps, fill a low area, or rebuild grade. The goal determines whether you should spread a thin layer everywhere or treat only the low zones as “extra” material.

• 1 inch is often used as light topdressing where you want grass to grow through quickly.
• 2–3 inches is often used for leveling and regrading work where you’re actively changing grade.
• 4+ inches is fill work—plan drainage, settling, and possibly staged placement (project dependent).

A reliable measuring method (average depth, not the deepest spot)

Take multiple depth readings across the full area and use an average thickness. Then add a second line item for low spots that truly need more depth. This avoids the common mistake of applying the deepest spot to the entire yard.

For low spots, measure the area of the spot and use an average depth for that spot (center deeper, edges shallower). That average depth is usually much smaller than the maximum depth you see at one point.

• Mark low spots and include a feathering zone—feathering consumes material beyond the obvious low area.
• Add a buffer for settling and raking; real lawns are irregular even if the math is clean.

Topdressing vs regrading (different goals, different risks)

Topdressing is a thin layer used to improve soil and smooth small imperfections without changing overall drainage patterns. Regrading is adding enough material to meaningfully change slope and water flow. Regrading can solve water problems, but it can also create new ones if you change where water goes.

If you’re adding several inches in places, think like a grading project: check where water will drain, how you’ll compact or stage the fill, and whether you need to protect nearby hardscape, beds, or foundations (project dependent).

• Thin topdressing is usually spread and raked so grass can grow through quickly.
• Thicker fills often need seeding/sod or staged placement rather than one pass.
• If standing water is the core problem, plan drainage first and use topsoil as the finishing layer.

Spreading tips (make the material go farther)

Even a good volume estimate can be wasted by uneven spreading. The goal is consistent thickness. Work in small sections, spread lightly, and re-check with a straightedge as you go instead of dumping piles and trying to rake them flat later.

• Use a landscape rake to feather edges and avoid ridges that catch mower wheels.
• Keep grass blades exposed during lawn topdressing; burying turf too deep can smother it.
• After watering or rain, expect some settling and plan a small touch-up pass.

Bulk ordering checklist (quality and logistics)

Bulk topsoil is usually cheaper per unit than bags, but quality varies. Before you order, confirm what you’re getting and where it will be dumped. A single load in the wrong spot can damage a driveway, block access, or turn into a messy wheelbarrow marathon.

Ask whether the topsoil is screened and what the typical texture is (sandy, loamy, clay-heavy). If you’re finishing a lawn, screened material is easier to rake smooth and is less likely to leave rocks that interfere with mowing.

• Confirm unit: cubic yard vs ton (and if ton, what conversion is used).
• Confirm access and dump location; plan tarps or a containment edge if needed.
• Keep a small buffer for feathering, cleanup, and unexpected low areas.

• Topsoil calculator
• Topsoil leveling guide