Topsoil leveling step-by-step (how to avoid over-ordering)

Why leveling estimates go wrong

The biggest mistake is using the lowest spot as the depth for the entire lawn. A single low area can inflate your order dramatically if you treat it as the whole project depth.

Instead, estimate an average depth for the full area and then add extra only for the low zones that truly need more material.

Step 1: map highs and lows

Use string lines, a long straightedge, or a level to identify high and low areas. Mark low zones separately so you can treat them as targeted fill instead of spreading the same depth everywhere.

Step 2: choose an average spread depth

Pick a realistic average depth you will spread across the whole area (for example, 1 inch topdressing). Then calculate extra volume for low areas as separate rectangles with their own average depth.

Step 3: feather edges (this changes volume)

Feathering is how you avoid sharp transitions that become bumps after settling. Feathering also consumes material, which is why leveling projects almost always need a buffer beyond the pure average-depth math.

Feathering in practice (avoid sharp edges)

Instead of dumping soil into a low spot with a sharp edge, spread the transition so thickness tapers gradually. This makes it easier to rake flat and avoids creating a “lip” that catches water or a mower wheel.

Most low spots are deeper in the center and taper toward the edges—so your estimate should be based on an average thickness, not the deepest point.

• Mark the low area and the feathering zone (it is usually bigger than the low spot).
• Measure several depths, average them, then add a small buffer for settling.
• Water lightly and re-check after settling; some projects need a second light top-up.

Step 4: settle and plan touch-ups

• Water and lightly roll if appropriate for your project; expect settling.
• Plan a small touch-up pass after the first rain or watering cycle.
• Keep a small amount of soil for minor low spots that appear after settling.

Step 0 (optional): prep that makes leveling easier

• Mow shorter than normal and remove debris so you can see the grade.
• Break up hard spots and remove rocks; core aeration can help if the soil is very compact (project dependent).
• If the lawn has severe thatch or poor drainage, address that first; adding soil on top won’t fix root-zone issues by itself.

How thick should you spread?

For lawn topdressing, thinner passes are usually safer. If you bury grass too deeply, you can smother it. Deeper fills often require seeding/sod or staged applications rather than one heavy dump.

• If you’re only smoothing minor unevenness, aim for a thin, rakeable layer.
• If low spots are several inches deep, treat them as a separate repair area and plan reseeding or sod (project dependent).

Aftercare (what keeps it from turning into a mess)

• Rake to keep grass blades exposed so the lawn can grow through.
• Water lightly to settle without washing soil into piles; avoid heavy watering that creates ruts.
• If you seeded, follow seed watering guidance and avoid foot traffic until established.

Common mistakes

• Using the deepest spot as the depth for the whole lawn (over-ordering).
• Spreading too thick and smothering turf instead of staging the repair.
• Skipping feathering and ending up with a ridge that mows poorly and pools water.

• Topsoil calculator
• Topsoil leveling guide
• Topsoil coverage chart
• Topsoil vs compost blends